Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Goodbye Korea

Well it's officially over. After a year, I have left Korea and am now back on American soil. Saying goodbye to friends, co-workers and students over the last week was extremely difficult, but I'm definitely happy to be home and reunited with my family and friends. It's hard to sum up a whole year into one blog, but I'm going to do my best without writing a novel and getting too carried away.

Last week, all the teachers at our school went out for our last dinner together. I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but teachers here are only allowed to stay at one school for three years, then they must move on to another one. This dinner was not only a "thank you" for the year, but also a farewell to those of us who weren't going to be returning next year. It was a really nice last dinner that had more celebration than it did tears. You could tell everyone was just happy to be with each other one last time and even though they knew that it was all ending soon, they were enjoying the moment and the time that they had with each other, including myself. I generally didn't enjoy these dinners, mainly because they would get sprung on me at the last minute or we'd go somewhere that didn't have very good food, but this one was actually a lot of fun and a nice way to start the "goodbye" process.

All week at school definitely felt different last week. I didn't really have any classes, because everyone was preparing for the next school year, which starts next week. After lunch, the school would get eerily quiet, lacking the usual backdrop of student laughter and playing, because they had all gone home. It just kind of felt like the end. I had many students, especially the younger ones, pleading with me not to leave, which obviously just turned me to mush. There's nothing I'm going to miss more about Korea than those kids. They are so innocent, fun-loving and worry-free, and brought a smile to my face every single day. Even when they wouldn't listen and drove me crazy! Of course I hope they learned some English from me, but more than anything, I hope that through their interactions with me, they learned that we're not as different as maybe they've been told we are. There's still a lot of prejudice that exists in Korea. Prejudice towards the Japanese, the Chinese and those of us from English-speaking countries. Prejudice towards women and those of a lesser stature in the country. You see and hear this mostly from the middle-aged citizens and a bit from the younger ones as well. This is a country that actually didn't want foreigners there, even as tourists, up until the Seoul Olympics, to preserve their heritage and culture from outside influences. My guess is that a lot of this thinking was a direct result of the many invasions and colonizations that Korea suffered through its history. After the Korean war finally allowed them to be free, they didn't want to chance any further infringements on their culture. This is just my opinion though, and it's not an educated one, so take it for what it's worth. It just makes sense to me. Anyway, these children are the beacon of light for change. Though some of them have already been taught to hate Japan and China, (I've been told about how bad the Japanese are and how dirty the Chinese are many times by my students) and not to trust foreigners, we English teachers have a chance to change that and influence them differently. I feel pretty confident that the students walked away feeling good about me and America. I think over time, as more and more foreigners come to Korea and share their language, traditions and customs, it can only be good for the country's social and economic growth. I hope that I was at least a little part of that process.

Saturday was the official closing ceremony and graduation for the sixth graders. During the closing ceremony, they recognized the teachers that were leaving, and we each were to go on stage and give a small speech. I thought it would be fun to give mine in Korean, so I wrote what I wanted to say in English and had a friend translate it for me. I've included video of the speech below. Only me and one other teacher ended up giving a speech, so apparently it wasn't mandatory like I was told, but I'm still happy that I did it. It was nice to get a final goodbye in to the whole school. After the ceremony, the school staff went out to lunch to celebrate our vice principal's retirement. This was definitely a more emotional affair than the dinner a few days earlier. A few teachers gave speeches about the vice principal, and one in particular brought him and most of the people in the room to tears. By the end everyone was smiling though, and even went off for some norebong after, which I respectfully declined.

The day after the closing ceremony, I attended my first and probably only Korean wedding. Brent had actually been to a couple before and told me about them, so I had somewhat of an idea of what to expect. The ceremony itself attempts to be very formal, held in a nicely decorated room with the bride wearing white and walking down the aisle. The person presiding over the ceremony is very genuine while giving his speech and the bride and groom even cut the cut the cake with a sword! The problem with the whole thing is really the people in attendance. They're talking, answering phones, sleeping and basically doing everything except paying attention to what's going on. It was really strange to see and all I could think of was how pissed an American girl would be if that was going on at her wedding. There definitely doesn't seem to be as much work involved in planning weddings for Korean girls though. To me, all it seems like they have to do is book the wedding hall, get a dress and send out the invitations. These wedding halls hold weddings all day and are already decorated, so it's never personalized for the couple. Then after the wedding, you're handed a meal coupon for wherever you're going to eat and then you go eat. There's no formal reception or anything. It was very interesting.

The next couple of days were filled with "goodbye" hangouts with all of our friends. We hit our favorite spots and just enjoyed spending time with them for the last time in a long time. We really did meet some good people here and they will be missed. Our friend Soo came back from Canada just a couple days before we left, which was only a bummer because we didn't get to spend as much time with her as we would have liked to. We were still excited to see and hang out with her again though. The morning that we left, most of them actually came to the airport to see us off, which was a really great way to leave. They showed up so early in the morning to see us go and it was just a very special feeling to have them there. I couldn't have imagined a better way to go.

With the year behind me and thinking about all that I experienced and learned, I just feel so lucky to have been in the situation that I was in. There's so many foreign teachers there who had horrible co-teachers or bad apartments or just problems in general with their school, and I didn't have any of these. As much as my co-teacher would annoy me sometimes and as far away as I would feel in my apartment, I actually had it really good. Looking back, I wouldn't have changed a thing. It was such a risk for me to leave my job last year and come here and do this, but I'm so glad that I did. I would have always regretted not doing something like this had I not come and it's just an incredible feeling to be here now with this year in the rearview mirror. This is a year that I will never forget and will always be glad that I did. The icing on the cake is that right at the end, I was lucky enough to land an amazing internship with MLS that I start in a few days; truly a dream opportunity for me.

The Korean people have definitely come a long way since the end of the Korean War. For as far as they've come technologically though, there is still a lot of room for growth in the social aspects of their society. Like I mentioned previously, there are still many prejudices prevalent and some just very archaic ways of thinking. It's almost as if they're on the cusp of social revolution, but are unwilling to let go of certain things that most developed countries have long recognized as "wrong" or "unfair." They're getting there, it's just going to take a lot more free thinking and openness to get them over the top, and as more and more Koreans travel abroad and more and more foreigners come to Korea, the process will move along much quicker.

In closing I just want to thank all of you that followed my exploits over the last year. I know some of these blogs got much longer than you wanted to read and I sometimes used this as a place to vent, but I enjoyed sharing my experience with you. It was always nice to hear from people about my blogs and get requests for new ones when it was taking me too long to update. Being your window into Korean culture has truly been an honor and I thank you for following along. Though I won't be keeping a blog of my goings-on anymore, I hope to keep in touch with all of you as I embark on a new set of adventures in my life.

Thanks for reading! 안녕히가세요!

At Gimhae Airport getting ready to leave.

Young, Ji Won, me, Soo, Brent, Betty

The last bar we went to took these polaroids and put them
up on the wall. Who knows how long they'll be there, but it's still cool.

I will miss them the most.


Sunday, February 7, 2010

It's Almost Over

Two-and-a-half weeks. That's all that remains of my year-long Korean adventure. Having returned from my trip to China just a little over a month ago, I figured I'd fill you in on what's been happening in these final weeks as I prepare to come home.

Winter English Camp has come and gone. It was three weeks of playing games, watching movies and some English education thrown in there too. I felt a little more prepared for this camp session as opposed to the summer camp, and I think it all went really well. We had more students this time around and the more structured set-up I used seemed to make everyone, including myself, happier. We did activity book English on Mondays, storybooks and singing on Tuesdays, games on Wednesdays, Rosetta Stone English on Thursdays and then English movies on Fridays. The movies on Fridays were especially beneficial for me, because it allowed me to get rid of a bunch of popcorn that I had purchased from Costco months ago. I have no idea what I was thinking when I bought 32 bags of popcorn. Did I really think I was going to eat all that?! Anyway, I'll still be bringing home around 10-15 bags or so, but I feel pretty good about what I was able to get rid of. I actually got really lucky with my English camp, because it was only three weeks long. Technically, I was only supposed to have 11 days off during the winter break period, but I ended up with three full weeks off! While other schools found work for their EPIK teachers, (sorry Brent) I was allowed to take that extra time off. So after camp ended, that gave me two weeks to use as I pleased.

The first week, I spent most of my time a) packing up boxes and shipping them back home, and b) looking for jobs. Job searching can really be tiring. I know it doesn't seem like much, since you're just sitting there browsing websites, but the problem is, the more you hunt, the more websites you find that have job listings in the area you're looking for. While some jobs are repeated on these sites, a lot of them have unique jobs that you wouldn't have found on another site. Scour these sites for hours upon hours and then tell me how you feel after. Ugh! The packing part of that first week I really enjoyed though. It was nice to start the clean out process of my apartment and definitely made the imminent departure more real. I think I mentioned in a previous post how I was practically out of places to store things in my apartment. It was really nice to clean out underneath my bed and in my wardrobe. I think I'm set now to fit everything I have left in my suitcases. We'll see.

The second free week I had, I ended up taking a couple trips. The first was to Gyeongju, which is located about an hour or so north of Busan. It's the former capital of the Silla Kingdom, which once ruled over all of Korea. This place was littered with ancient temples and tombs of which were thousands of years old. The tombs had very interesting designs. Egyptian pyramids there are not. They actually just look like hills. I've included some pictures below so you can see what I'm talking about. Had I not been there with my co-teacher, but with some friends instead, I'm sure we would have run up and slid down these things, because that's all I could really think about doing. They just looked like they would be so much fun to slide down on, especially if we had some cardboard boxes. They weren't guarded or anything, so I think we would have been okay. Unless there's some ancient Korean curse on them that would have somehow forced me to eat kimchi or something. Anyway, one of the interesting things about the many tombs, is that they don't know who are buried in all of them. The tombs aren't marked and only a couple have been excavated, so it's mostly assumed that they are of kings and queens from the past. We ended the day there by getting some local bread that apparently is pretty famous in Korea. It was basically just like a red bean paste wrapped in a thin layer of bread. It tasted good when we first bought it, but upon reheating a couple days later, it did not. Somehow, it had a fishy taste to it when I reheated it. Weird. To be honest, I really wasn't looking forward to this trip, because I just knew it would be kind of boring, and it was a little, but my co-teacher really wanted to take me, so I went. She's become really attached to me over our time here, even referring to me as her American son. Sometimes this is a good thing and sometimes it's a bad thing. Like when she treats me like I'm still a child. Yeah, that's not fun. But when she gives me two extra weeks off during winter camp, that's fun. Anyway, while it was a little boring, it was definitely tolerable and provided a break from the job searching that would consume most of the rest of the week.

This past weekend Brent and I went to Seoul for what could be the last time in decades, if not ever. When we returned from China, I was up late one night (putting together that China video blog I think) and I saw a commercial on TV about the Killers playing a show in Seoul. I immediately looked for more info on the Internet and found the site that was selling tickets. I e-mailed Brent right away to see if he was interested. By about 10:30 a.m. the next day we had our tickets and hotel room booked. It was so cool how quickly it came together. We got our train tickets later that day and were set for one last weekend in Seoul with the Killers. Until about a week before the show, when Brent received a phone call saying the show had been canceled. Apparently a family member of one of the band members was seriously ill and it caused them to cancel all their Asian tour dates. That left us both pretty bummed, especially when I tried to cancel the hotel reservation, but couldn't because of the special price we got on the room for booking in advance. So we decided to make the best of it and just go to Seoul for one last time, because at worst, we'd get to eat good food and take uniterrupted hot showers.

I had actually been in contact with my co-teacher's daughter who lives in Seoul, because she was going to be attending the Killers concert too. When my co-teacher told her that Brent and I were still going to Seoul, she offered to take us out that night to see some indy Korean bands play at a local little venue. We ended up having a pretty good time and seeing some polished bands play fun, upbeat music. That actually ended up being the second show we saw in three days after not having seen any all year. Back in Busan we saw a couple Korean groups and a Chinese band called Carsick Cars. The Busan show was fun, but the Seoul show was much better. It was a nice change of scenery from the doldrums of Busan, where everyone looks, talks and acts the same. This last trip definitely solidified that if you're ever going to come to Korea, Seoul is the place to be! There is a revolution brewing up there. You can see and feel it. The ancient mindset that has so many Koreans trapped in ignorant and naive bubbles, is slowly evolving in Seoul.

I'm sure Brent would also like me to mention the shilacking I took during our trip-long rummy game. For anyone who doesn't know how to play rummy, you basically rack up points by making sets of threes with the cards and usually the first person to 500 wins. Well back when we went to China, I suggested we play a trip-long game and whoever had the most points at the end of the trip would win. This gave us a great time-killer while on our many flights, layovers and train rides. Well, I beat him pretty good on that trip, leading by 990 points before finally winning by around 820 points or so. This trip to Seoul however, the tables were turned. He got a lead of up to around 600 points or so and ended up beating me by a little over 200. I only mention this, because I know how happy he felt to get that redemption and I'm sure would like all of you to know.

That takes me right up to today, where I'm back at school for the final two weeks of regular instruction, or so I think. You never when plans will change on you at the last second. Today is a great example, when I expected to have a full slate of regular classes only to have one class, which only came, because I bought them an ice cream cake for winning the classroom behavior contest. You just never know.

See you all soon!!!


An actual coffee place in Busan. Awesome.


Which one of these is not like the other?


Don't you want to just run up it and slide down?!


They were scattered all over the place like this.


Something ancient and traditional in Gyeongju.


Friday, January 8, 2010

China Odyssey: Episode IV - The Most Greatest Wall

On a trip booked through China Odyssey Tours, Brent and Robert chronicle the journeys of their seven day conquest of the Republic of China.

Episode IV - The Most Greatest Wall
Brent and Rob conclude their travels with a trip down the sacred secret road, before finally conquering the great Mongol catcher of 1453.

China Odyssey: Episode III - The Forbidden Kingdom

On a trip booked through China Odyssey Tours, Brent and Robert chronicle the journeys of their seven day conquest of the Republic of China.

Episode III - The Forbidden Kingdom
Is it a kingdom? Is it a city? Chairman Bro watches as Brent and Rob enter the unknown. Plus, the salespeople attack!



China Odyssey: Episode II - The Traditional Chinese Foot Slap

On a trip booked through China Odyssey Tours, Brent and Robert chronicle the journeys of their seven day conquest of the Republic of China.

Episode II - The Traditional Chinese Foot Slap
Brent tells the tale of a foot massage he'll never forget.

Thursday, January 7, 2010

China Odyssey: Episode I - Shanghai Nights, Tangerine Dreams

On a trip booked through China Odyssey Tours, Brent and Robert chronicle the journeys of their seven day conquest of the Republic of China.

Episode I - Shanghai Nights, Tangerine Dreams
Brent and Rob meet Susan the Wise, whose guidance through Shanghai sets the tone for their epic journey.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Merry Christmas!

Hi everyone! I'm off for China tomorrow, but before I leave, I have a special holiday message from my students and me. Enjoy!


Merry Christmas!!!